Soon after returning to the Bay Area in August 1975 I got a job at Moishe’s, a Jewish deli in Berkeley on Shattuck Ave. near Haste. I worked there for about a year before Greg came back from Europe. Of course he got a job there also, and we had a great time working together at Moishe’s for the next couple years. Greg had a soft spot for the down and outers that were a constant presence in Berkeley and showed his big heart by going out of his way to save usable but unsellable food to give to the street people. The key significance of Moishe’s is that it was owned by 4 lawyers, one of which was named Sheldon Otis. Sheldon had been the defense lawyer for Huey Newton and was in regular contact with Huey. Sheldon took a special liking to me and Greg and offered to rent us the downstairs of his house for a very reasonable price. Greg took him up on the offer and lived there for a little less than a year. During that time he got to know Huey, and they became good friends.
In about 1978 Greg left Moishe’s for a job as a busboy at Norman’s Restaurant in Berkeley on College Ave at the corner of Alcatraz. This was a very lucrative job. After 6 months or so he convinced Norman’s to give him a shot at waiter, and he arranged for me to take his busboy job. Greg was an absolute natural as a waiter. He loved socializing with the clientele and showing them a good time. He was also very efficient and in control, so he provided excellent service. He was totally in his element and really felt at home in the restaurant business.
During this time one of Greg’s favorite activities was to go to one of the local restaurants for weekend brunch. His favorite was Mama’s Royal Café on Broadway in Oakland. It certainly did not escape Greg’s attention that all of his favorite places were packed for brunch with waits of 45 minutes not uncommon. He gradually began hatching a plan to open his own restaurant to compete with his favorite places. He was fully convinced that he could improve on their offering and be just as successful or more so.
Greg’s enthusiasm was always infectious, and he was really evangelizing his restaurant concept and got me and others thoroughly caught up in the excitement. Sometime around April 1980, Greg found what he was hoping for – an affordable opportunity to hatch his dream. In Oakland on College Ave at the corner of Broadway was a failed restaurant that was on sale for $15,000 – about the value of the equipment and furnishings.
Greg and I had done a firewood business previously with a high school classmate named Gordon Smith. Gordon also had a significant amount of restaurant experience, particularly in the kitchen of a large restaurant, an area where Greg and I were somewhat lacking in experience. Gordon was also keen to be part of the business. Greg and I used every bit of our persuasive abilities to convince Kate and John to put up $15,000 and my Mom to put up $15,000 for a 1/5th ownership in the new venture. Greg, Gordon, and I had some money saved which we committed to using to support ourselves until the restaurant could support us.
On July 3, 1980 we signed the papers. In the next 8 weeks the 3 of us got more work done than could possibly be imagined. We completely transformed the eating area and kitchen. Greg and Gordon focused on the kitchen, getting the necessary equipment and supplies and developing the menu. I focused on the dining room and the accounting. We were working about 18 hours a day, 7 days a week. During that 8 weeks, I built the solid mahogany front doors, installed wainscoting throughout the restaurant, built 3 large tile tables and roughly a dozen oak tables, refurbished an old bread slicing machine that we got for a hundred dollars, read a college accounting book and set up the restaurant books, and on and on. Greg and Gordon were equally busy. We managed to do just about everything on the cheap. Greg’s friend Paulette Traverso had done graphics work for us previously for Worm Woods Worm Farm and agreed to be our graphics artist at a reduced fee. This was really a key element, because her spectacular logo and other designs were instrumental in giving the restaurant its identity.
Greg wanted to name the restaurant Aardvark’s figuring that it would be the first listing in the restaurant section of the yellow pages, but he admitted that other than that it was not much of a catchy name. We bandied a number of names around but Vija’s suggestion of The Joli Café or Café Joli (French for Pretty Café) was a winner. Paulette’s beautiful logo with its leaf motif was painted in our front window and the leaf motif was also etched in glass ovals and set in the double front doors. On August 28, 1980, Café Joli opened its doors.
Do you know the number one reason that new businesses fail? Under capitalization. We had $15,000 to refurbish and stock the restaurant, buy many new supplies and equipment, and begin paying employee salaries. Yipes! All I can say is that it was a good thing that we started off busy or we would have been in trouble. It was nerve wracking but exciting! We were off to a good start. Greg’s instincts were paying off. Good coffee, homemade bread and muffins, and delicious breakfast entrées were turning out to be an irresistible draw. Aina helped out as one of our best waitresses. It really came together as a group effort of family and friends and couldn’t have been done without so much help and support (and our parent’s blind faith in providing the financing).
Greg and I saw eye to eye on most things. Gordon on the other hand thought we were spending too much money on our food supplies and had different ideas about the menu. He wanted to cook with oil instead of butter to save money, that kind of thing. I don’t think Greg and I were completely uncompromising, but our philosophical differences in how to run the restaurant began to cause quite a bit of friction and after 6 months Gordon left the partnership. It was a really sad day, but perhaps inevitable.
Nearing the end of our first year, one of us had always been at the restaurant. By this time we had some really good kitchen employees and we finally felt comfortable taking a day off together. So we decided we would take a vacation to San Francisco! We planned to dress like out of town tourists and go to the standard tourist destinations, most of which neither of us had ever been to. We headed to Good Will and bought some great ties and dress shirts. I wore a sheep skin hat. We looked so fresh off the boat that all day long people stopped to ask us where we were from; to which we gave a variety of answers, such as answering in Dutch, looking completely confused, or simply “Oakland!” which certainly got the most puzzled looks! Most of the time Greg spoke to me in Dutch and I spoke to him in Dutch gibberish. In many cases we asked young ladies in halting English if we could take a picture with them and Greg. We went to the entrance to Chinatown, Coit Tower, Fisherman’s Wharf, and rode on cable cars. There are pictures of us hamming it up at just about every location. It was one of our “funnest” and funniest days in a long time.
Our dream for Café Joli was that we would run it for a year or so and then turn it over to a trusted manager and sit back and collect the profit checks. Wow, were we naïve! Probably the worst decision we made was in signing our original lease. We negotiated a one year lease with a five year extension. The rent the first year was reasonable, but the rents in the 5 year lease were outrageous, but that didn’t matter – by then we would creaming it anyway – at least that was our thinking.
There were many aspects of the business that we loved, but it was also very tough to be responsible for absolutely everything that could and did go wrong. Near the end of the first year we were now very busy on weekends, but we still weren’t making much money (maybe Gordon had a point!). Now we were facing the prospect of $600 per month more in rent. Ouch! By this time we had realized that we were not going to be on easy street sitting back collecting the profits. We were burned out and started to consider walking away from the business, but there was no way to do this without our parents losing their investment. That was unthinkable.
We raised our prices and tried to make other sensible improvements in our operations. Greg kept improving our menu and our weekend specials. Our food was really amazing. Weekends were unbelievably demanding. We generally had a waiting line from about 10 until about 2:30. Preparing the food quickly but with quality and consistency was always a challenge. The kitchen was small with one six burner stove and a 42” wide griddle. There was only room for three in the kitchen; 1) The main cook was responsible for all the main dishes; specials, omelets, crepes, blintzes, eggs, pancakes, etc. 2) The assistant cook was responsible for the home fries, toast, and helping the main cook with bacon and sausage. 3) The helper was responsible for garnishing the plates, making sure all the cook’s supplies were stocked, and everything else. Café Joli had seating for 65. All three positions were pushed to their limit to keep the food coming to the hungry hordes. No one that ever worked in the kitchen was as good as Greg as the main cook. He was the fastest, the best at timing it so all the dishes on one ticket were done at the same time, and he had the most consistent quality. As chef, he developed the recipes. As cook, he efficiently pumped dish after dish out of the kitchen. He was phenomenal at both jobs.
Greg loved to “goof on” people; with a straight face he would act in unexpected ways or tell them crazy stuff. As an example of this, somewhere around 2 years into our Café Joli adventure, a young man named Pat Fanning came into the restaurant. He was from Colorado visiting a friend of his that was a Café Joli regular. Pat thought it had a great feel and might be a good place to work so he asked for a job application. We didn’t have any applications. It had slowed down, so Greg just came out of the kitchen and went and sat down at Pat’s table like they were old friends. They talked for maybe a half hour and Greg never asked anything about his work experience. Finally, Greg asked if he would like to start the next day washing dishes. Pat was elated. The next day, Greg had set up a small dirt patch in the Joli back yard with pineapple tops alternating with half buried beer bottles. When Pat came to work, Greg showed him his regular duties washing dishes and then took him into the back yard and showed him the “garden” and with ultimate seriousness said that he was very proud of the garden and that keeping it tended and watered was Pat’s most important duty. Then Greg went back to work. Pat thought Greg was crazy! I think sometime after Pat’s first time watering the “garden”, Greg laughed and laughed, Pat finally knew he had been “punked”.
In our first couple years owning Joli, we had a very reasonable health inspector that would make reasonable requests and suggestions. Unfortunately, somewhere in about the third year she was replaced by a “by the book” health inspector. He told us that according to regulations we needed separate sinks for washing dishes, washing mops, washing vegetables, and one other that I can’t even remember. He wanted us to have 4 different sinks! He gave us these awful stickers that said “DIRTY HANDS SPREAD DISEASE! EMPLOYEES MUST WASH HANDS!” and said we had to post them in our bathrooms. He had a dozen inane things that we were required to do. He was kind of a pansy, but we were worried that eventually he could force us to do some of these things. We were looking into selling Joli and knew that this guy could be an obstacle by demanding his 4 sinks and other requirements before approving the transfer. He had been coming about every 6 months. We hatched a plan that if nothing else would be amazingly funny. The next time he came in we were ready. We had the waitresses stall him at the front. On the light fixtures that he said must be covered, we completely covered the bulbs with aluminum foil. We positioned Gary by the bathroom door. Greg grabbed a glass of red wine and dabbed some on his neck so he fairly reeked. It was 11 in the morning. He went out to greet the inspector with clearly slurred speech, put his arm around his shoulder and proceeded to show him our improvements:
1) Our automatic bathroom door closer (Gary standing at the ready to close the door).
2) The wash hands sticker (which was on the back of the paper towel dispenser – you had to pull the dispenser off the wall to see it)
3) The light protecting covers (aluminum foil which blocked 100% of the light)
4) Some crazy plan for sinks which I think involved a large pot, our outside hose, and our neighbor’s facilities.
5) Several additional hare brained schemes to address his requirements.
The funniest thing was that guy never got it. He was just really uncomfortable and made comments like “Well no one will really be able to see it on the back of the dispenser” or “that is not a very effective light cover because it doesn’t let out any light”. The guy was a total stiff! After he left, we laughed long and hard. But the best part is that it worked! That guy never came back to Joli! When we were finally able to negotiate a new lease, a new and reasonable health inspector allowed us to transfer with just common sense improvements.
Greg and I were 24 when Café Joli opened. Although we were the owners, all of the employees were our peers. We were not only co-workers, but friends. We worked together, partied together, and not infrequently were dating each other. Several employees worked at Joli virtually the entire 6 years. It really felt like a family. The Joli family included John Christenson, Dan Pearson, Gary Taylor, Milton Johnson, Eric Fanning, Jeff Williams, Pat Fanning, Adam Frank, Pat Rock, Raymond Dixon, T Michael, Aina Kemanis, Rita Savelis, Andrea, Mary Barbera, Darcy Hagin, Jaime Fox, Carissa, Julie, Danielle, Nadia, Paula, Eva Swackhamer, and many others (I can picture their faces, but after 25 years some of the names just won’t bubble to the surface). I wanted to mention as many as I could remember, (apologies for those I could not) because they were integral to a key period in Greg’s life.
Of course, by far the most important Café Joli legacies are 1) Greg meeting Camilla and having his two precious baby girls, Aina and Tenisha. He was such a doting father! And 2) Me meeting Karen, my wife to be, introduced by none other than Pat Fanning.
I believe that Café Joli was an exceptional experience for Greg; one in which he could really showcase his talents and for which he could feel great pride. I believe that it is also a testament to the strength of our friendship that it was able to not only withstand, but grow and expand, during all of the trials and tribulations and stress of running a business together. Thank you, Greg, for your friendship and partnership during our “restaurant years”.