“The sun did not shine. It was too wet to play. So we sat in the house. All that cold, cold, wet day." -- Dr. Seuss, The Cat in the Hat
Rose and I traveled to Italy twice to staff our exhibit at Intelligent Transportation Systems conferences. The first conference was in Rome which each of us had visited before; however, neither of us had been to the fabled Cinque Terre (Five Lands) north of Rome on the coast. I checked out the internet and determined that the only way you could get there easily was by boat or by train. There were few interconnecting roads to the main Italian freeways since the five villages, each within a few miles of each other, were built on the sides of very steep cliffs rising above the sea. Vernazza was in the center of the villages so it seemed like a good location to stay for a few days and be able to hike north or south to see the others. There were no rooms available in the village proper but I found a B&B just outside and to the south that had rooms. It was advertised as “just off the hiking trail with beautiful views of the Ligurian Sea below”. We booked our rooms, and flight reservations to go into Rome but out of Genoa to the north. We would take the train north from Rome after the conference and head for Genoa but stop off for four days in Vernazza to visit the area.
We arrived in Rome on schedule but one of Rose’s checked bags did not. United Airlines told us not to worry; the bag would be brought to the conference hotel. Rose always carried a few backup items in her carry-on bag so she was able to skimp by and all went well with the conference otherwise. When the conference ended the bag was still lost but the hotel said they would forward it so we caught the last train north in the evening. We knew we would be arriving between 3 and 4 am in Vernazza but that did not concern us because our assumption was that we would be dropped off at the main train station there and would just hang out until the village woke up and the train staff arrived so that we could ask for directions to our lodging place. Well, that was the theory, but in practice it didn’t work that way.
It was April and the weather had been almost perfect in Rome but by the time we headed north, a cold front had come through and it was damp and cold along the coast. When the conductor announced Vernazza next stop, we sleepily gathered up our stuff -- Rose’s purse and large brown carry-on bag, and my suitcase, computer case and backpack -- as the train brakes squealed and brought us to a stop. We stumbled off, the only passengers disembarking there, into a dimly lit train platform that was only about 200 feet long and literally nestled in between two tunnels -- the one we just came through and the one half of the train ahead was in. the train sped off only seconds after we stepped off and there we stood, bewildered. Where is the train station? The village street could be seen below the platform area leading away to buildings we could barely make out in the cold fog.
We began to shiver because we had not dressed for cold weather. Rose only had a light sweater on and sandals. It was a wet, penetrating cold that I remembered from my days at Navy Officer Candidate School in Newport, Rhode Island and from visits to Hong Kong in the winter. It may only be 45 F, but wet cold seems to be able to dig deep into your body, seemingly a stealth invader, bypassing any insulation from your clothing.
We were starting to shake from the cold, so I suggested that we go into the tunnel nearest us that looked like a storage tunnel that ran adjacent to the train tunnel. We proceeded into it for about 50 feet, opened up my bag and Rose’s bag and started searching for anything that we could put on to keep warm. We were able to put on extra shirts and sweaters but we had not brought coats and most of Rose's warmer clothing was in her missing suitcase. We trudged out of the tunnel and down the platform stairs to try to find the rail station. There had to be one. We found it back in the direction we had came, a level down, but it was under construction! We walked into the concrete building but there were no windows and no doors, just construction rubble. We were so cold and shaking. The only thing to do was to stay close together and make the best of it. It was around 5 am by this time and we still had 2 hours to go before the sun rose, and since we were on the west side of a steep coastline, the Sun’s rays would not reach the village until about 7:30 am. We were miserable.
We did our best to keep warm for about an hour sitting on concrete rubble in the train station but then we couldn’t stand it any more and decided that walking, even with bags, might warm us. Who knows, maybe a small coffee or bake shop might be open by now, so we, the bedraggled, sleepy, tired and cold travelers we were, wandered into the village like two beggars looking for a handout of a bit of heat. Nothing was open. All of the shop doors were locked. We figured out our direction, and found a stucco wall that we knew would see the Sun’s rays first. We plopped down our bags, weaved ourselves into a small pile against the wall and shook for another hour.
Finally, we discovered life in Vernazza. A shopkeeper had strewn into view and was putting his key into the lock of a door about 50 feet away. I scampered down to talk to him with the few Italian words I knew, but I had a map and the name of the B&B and showed that to him. He rattled off Italian like a machine gun and kept pointing up the cliff to the south. Somehow he managed to point me to where the trail head was located and just kept saying in Italian something that I interpreted as “go south, go south down the trail.” I thanked him and went back to rescue a frozen, immobile Rose.
We went back to the train station location and kept going uphill this time until we saw what looked to be the trailhead. Luckily, a lady was just coming down the trail with an armful of flowers. I showed her the map and she smiled and said the same words the other guy had said to me. We then began our slow trudge up the trail. We climbed and we climbed. The bags seemed to gain weight as we plodded on. We stopped now and then and looked down. I estimated that we had increased our elevation above the sea by 600-700 feet. The trail was narrow and in many places only a step or two to the right would be disasterous. I was nearly exhausted, but as I looked back at poor Rose, laboriously taking each step, I suddenly was hit by the hilarity of it all. I sat down in the middle of the trail, took out my camera and took her picture (see above). When she reached me, her scowls had also turned into smiles. We sat there and laughed about our predicament.
Finally, the trail leveled off and we were able to walk level again. In another quarter mile we came to a gate on our left with the sign of our B&B and stone steps leading up the hillside. More climbing! It was not far. We got to the house, knocked on the door but no answer. Oh great. We came all this way and the place is not open. We laughed again. I tried another door but got no answer. So, we piled our bags on the porch and decided to go back to the village and find a place to get coffee and breakfast and get warm again. The hike had warmed us but now the cold was settling in again.
Going down was easy and we notice a little restaurant about half way down that we did not see on the way up that was open later in the day. We did find a place to eat in the village. The coffee was wonderful and the food too. The owner spoke fairly good English so we explained our situation. She laughed and said that there were not that many tourists there yet in early April and the owners, who lived in Rome did not stay in Vernazza until later. There was a housekeeper there and she thought they should have been at the B&B by then. She also told us that the daughter stayed in Vernazza in the parent’s apartment this time of the year. She knew her and made a call for us. Within an hour the daughter was sitting at our table apologizing for the inconvenience. She said we were the first guests this month and had the place to ourselves. She led us back up to the B&B and pointed out things along the way.
At the B&B we learned that the housekeeper was there but she was in the basement getting supplies and did not hear us on our earlier visit. No problem. We were here now. Warm and well fed but very tired. The daughter showed us our rooms and gave us a lot of information about things to do. We explained the situation about the lost bag. She took down all of our information and promised to call the Rome hotel for an update. We crashed and slept for hours.
During the next four days we enjoyed the area by hiking to the village to the south along the same trail. The little restaurant we noted turned out to be our favorite place to hang out. We had never eaten fresh sardines before. The chef there cooked them in olive oil, white wine and shallots, served with roasted local vegetables and pasta. We had at least one meal there every day.
On our day of departure the daughter came with good news. She was able to arrange with the hotel for her parent’s to pick up Rose’s bag in Rome and bring it here. They were on their way and would meet us at the train station. We made the bag handoff just fine, thanked them and headed north to Genoa to catch our flight.
In later years, anytime we would get cold, we would look at each other and smile and say, “yes, but never as cold as we were in the Cinque Terre.” This trip as difficult as it was at times, turned out to be one of the all time highlights of our travels.
“I love those who can smile in trouble….” -- Leonardo da Vinci