March 2
March 2
Marshall,
I'm thinking of you on the anniversary of your passing...
Remembering our surf trip to Panama with Jon and Whitey way back when... maybe '95...
The Left point we discovered and hiked to thru the jungle to surf repeatedly remains our secret to this day. You named it! Leish Point....after the threat of Leishmaniusus we were concerned about contracting from the native bush. We surfed a few days there, leaving our van on the country roadside and walking the long tromp in each day. We discovered small perfect off season South swell peeling from an outside sandbar thru to inside the large inlet crawling with sharks at its mouth. Red crabs plagued the low tide sandy beach as we chased them, and ran from them, before they scurried down their holes in the sand. We took refuge on high ground under the shade of the jungle on the corner of the bar praying we would not contract Leish, a skin eating disease. To our surprise, we found that upcoming tide meant rising swell as the perfect shaped lefts peeled along the bank way up the river! A special time of discovery, solitude, and wave riding thrills was shared by all of us! I remember surfing late into the evening enjoying the tidal push and surreal lefts. ...You inspired and organized that quest and stretched the journey on to Costa Rica and to Langosta and Witches Rock where we camped beachside and enjoyed double overhead perfect El Nino West swells firing with offshore winds for days! You were wise to indentify the promise of larger surf on the West facing beaches of CR in January, and bold enough to make the move to start a second trip within the first. We, your comrades, disciples, followed your lead to many a treasure beyond our knowing. We thank you for that, and for all the joys and laughter we shared. Somewhere there's a movie or video we created. ... I'm sorry I lost touch with you and didn't know you were on your way to leaving us so soon in life. I wish I knew and was able to visit you, and able to share more laughs before your goodbye.
I'm thinking of you on the anniversary of your passing...
Remembering our surf trip to Panama with Jon and Whitey way back when... maybe '95...
The Left point we discovered and hiked to thru the jungle to surf repeatedly remains our secret to this day. You named it! Leish Point....after the threat of Leishmaniusus we were concerned about contracting from the native bush. We surfed a few days there, leaving our van on the country roadside and walking the long tromp in each day. We discovered small perfect off season South swell peeling from an outside sandbar thru to inside the large inlet crawling with sharks at its mouth. Red crabs plagued the low tide sandy beach as we chased them, and ran from them, before they scurried down their holes in the sand. We took refuge on high ground under the shade of the jungle on the corner of the bar praying we would not contract Leish, a skin eating disease. To our surprise, we found that upcoming tide meant rising swell as the perfect shaped lefts peeled along the bank way up the river! A special time of discovery, solitude, and wave riding thrills was shared by all of us! I remember surfing late into the evening enjoying the tidal push and surreal lefts. ...You inspired and organized that quest and stretched the journey on to Costa Rica and to Langosta and Witches Rock where we camped beachside and enjoyed double overhead perfect El Nino West swells firing with offshore winds for days! You were wise to indentify the promise of larger surf on the West facing beaches of CR in January, and bold enough to make the move to start a second trip within the first. We, your comrades, disciples, followed your lead to many a treasure beyond our knowing. We thank you for that, and for all the joys and laughter we shared. Somewhere there's a movie or video we created. ... I'm sorry I lost touch with you and didn't know you were on your way to leaving us so soon in life. I wish I knew and was able to visit you, and able to share more laughs before your goodbye.