Sailing to Europe, by Jerry Hanson
February 24
I graduated in June 1964 at Rice University and decided to take a trip to Europe before starting Medical School in the fall. My parents indicated they would fund the trip and consider it a graduation present. Imagine my excitement when I learned that one of the Rice Board of Trustees who owned the Bloomfield Shipping line offered four free round trips to Europe in a contest for graduates. The only requirements were to leave on the last port of call of the ship and disembark on the first port we reached and return from the last port returning to the United States. Two friends, Tom Sears and Larry Yeatman, and I were all accepted. The other passenger was Marty Buckley who was a Rice student from Midland, Texas.
My Dad invested in a VW bus for me which we planned to use and return to Houston and hopefully make a profit. One week before departure we were notified to meet our ship, the SS Alice Brown, in New Orleans on June 8. We took a bus to New Orleans and boarded the Alice Brown where we learned we were the only passengers and the ship was not leaving until the following morning.
We decided to spend our last evening ashore in the French Quarter and were able to see the famous trumpeter Al Hirt and jazz clarinetist Pete Fountain. I played the clarinet in my high school band and could appreciate the skill of these musicians. Another group was the Preservation Hall Jazz Band which played in a small room open to Bourbon Street and allowed people to stand next to the musicians. We concluded our evening at Pat O’briens Bar and gardens with their famous hurricane cocktails.
I was sound asleep when I was jolted awake by the sudden motion of the ship. I quickly dressed and ran out on deck convinced our voyage had begun but was surprised that we were moving up the Mississippi. A crewman told me we were going upriver to load more cargo at the Napolean wharf, a military area. None of us really felt like another night in the French Quarter but after realizing it was our last night before two weeks at sea we went anyway. That afternoon I was taking a walk when I thought my trip was over before it began when I was attacked with a chokehold from behind and told I was under arrest. I had been photographing the Dixie Queen, a paddle steamboat and forgotten it was a military area and no pictures were allowed. I explained my situation and the soldier released me after confiscating my film.
The following morning the SS Alice Brown started weaving down the Mississippi. The terrain consisted of countless marshy island and lagoons. I wondered where Andrew Jackson and his troops had fought the Battle of New Orleans in 1814 because there was no dry land until we reached open water.
None of us had sailed on the ocean and we worried about being seasick for two weeks. To our great joy the Gulf of Mexico and most of the west Atlantic Ocean were as smooth as molasses. We met Eric who was our steward and turned out to be an interesting guy. He woke us at 7:30 for breakfast. We spent most of the day reading or learning to play a cheap Decca guitar with a Weavers songbook I bought in New Orleans. Our daily pattern was to go back to bed after breakfast, get up for lunch at 11:00 walk around the ship or exercise in the afternoon, and clean up for dinner at 5:00. In the evening we often played bridge until midnight. When we passed the lights of Key West we witnessed a terrific electric storm over Florida. One night we were startled by four long blasts from our ship. We ran on deck just in time to see our bow barely miss running over a small boat showing only one small light. We discussed whether the boat was a drug runner or possibly carrying people escaping Cuba.
One night after dinner we were invited by First Mate Schulmeyer to visit the bridge. He explained that every day they post our position and distance to our destination. That day we were near Miami and 4,194 miles to Le Havre France. The ship made 400 miles a day and was predicted to arrive around June 22. We could see the hotels of Miami and West Palm Beach but about 60 miles south of Cape Kennedy we turned out into the Atlantic to catch the Gulf stream. First Mate Schulmeyer showed us a Coast Guard map showing iceberg limits and paths of famous unusually large bergs. He stated that we would cross a very small portion of the iceberg area but June is the time of year they are coming down.
One night Eric invited us to use the ship to shore radio and I was able to talk to my parents for a few minutes. They were surprised and relieved to talk to me from the Atlantic Ocean. Later that evening we were talking to Eric and he revealed that he had two wives. One wife lived in Mobile, Alabama and the other lived in Hamburg, Germany. They did not know about his unusual lifestyle and he admitted he had to be careful to keep their names straight but he was never lonely when he was in port.
First Mate Schulmeyer calculated we should reach Le Havre about June 23 but shocked us when he announced that our first port might be Gdansk, Poland since we were carrying a large cargo of grain that we might have to unload first. This was a major problem since none of us had visas for Poland and I had plans to meet friends in Paris who were going to travel with me on the VW bus.
On June 22 we were passed by a huge passenger ship, the SS United States, which was making 33 Knots to our 15. We were near the English channel and soon could see Bishop Rock. Our course was still Le Havre. We went by Normandy beach and could see the famous beaches of Utah and Omaha which were stormed almost exactly twenty years ago on D-day by Allied forces. Some German concrete bunkers were still visible.
We had to negotiate two locks to get to our berth. A huge ship in the harbor was a US Carrier the SS Essex. We were all enchanted by thepastel cliffs of Le Havre with quaint little cars and hundreds of bikes. The town and harbor had been completely destroyed in World War II but rebuilt in the original style. We learned that Americans were not welcome because of the extensive damage we caused to the docks and city. Our voyage was over but our summer trip to Europe had just begun.
My Dad invested in a VW bus for me which we planned to use and return to Houston and hopefully make a profit. One week before departure we were notified to meet our ship, the SS Alice Brown, in New Orleans on June 8. We took a bus to New Orleans and boarded the Alice Brown where we learned we were the only passengers and the ship was not leaving until the following morning.
We decided to spend our last evening ashore in the French Quarter and were able to see the famous trumpeter Al Hirt and jazz clarinetist Pete Fountain. I played the clarinet in my high school band and could appreciate the skill of these musicians. Another group was the Preservation Hall Jazz Band which played in a small room open to Bourbon Street and allowed people to stand next to the musicians. We concluded our evening at Pat O’briens Bar and gardens with their famous hurricane cocktails.
I was sound asleep when I was jolted awake by the sudden motion of the ship. I quickly dressed and ran out on deck convinced our voyage had begun but was surprised that we were moving up the Mississippi. A crewman told me we were going upriver to load more cargo at the Napolean wharf, a military area. None of us really felt like another night in the French Quarter but after realizing it was our last night before two weeks at sea we went anyway. That afternoon I was taking a walk when I thought my trip was over before it began when I was attacked with a chokehold from behind and told I was under arrest. I had been photographing the Dixie Queen, a paddle steamboat and forgotten it was a military area and no pictures were allowed. I explained my situation and the soldier released me after confiscating my film.
The following morning the SS Alice Brown started weaving down the Mississippi. The terrain consisted of countless marshy island and lagoons. I wondered where Andrew Jackson and his troops had fought the Battle of New Orleans in 1814 because there was no dry land until we reached open water.
None of us had sailed on the ocean and we worried about being seasick for two weeks. To our great joy the Gulf of Mexico and most of the west Atlantic Ocean were as smooth as molasses. We met Eric who was our steward and turned out to be an interesting guy. He woke us at 7:30 for breakfast. We spent most of the day reading or learning to play a cheap Decca guitar with a Weavers songbook I bought in New Orleans. Our daily pattern was to go back to bed after breakfast, get up for lunch at 11:00 walk around the ship or exercise in the afternoon, and clean up for dinner at 5:00. In the evening we often played bridge until midnight. When we passed the lights of Key West we witnessed a terrific electric storm over Florida. One night we were startled by four long blasts from our ship. We ran on deck just in time to see our bow barely miss running over a small boat showing only one small light. We discussed whether the boat was a drug runner or possibly carrying people escaping Cuba.
One night after dinner we were invited by First Mate Schulmeyer to visit the bridge. He explained that every day they post our position and distance to our destination. That day we were near Miami and 4,194 miles to Le Havre France. The ship made 400 miles a day and was predicted to arrive around June 22. We could see the hotels of Miami and West Palm Beach but about 60 miles south of Cape Kennedy we turned out into the Atlantic to catch the Gulf stream. First Mate Schulmeyer showed us a Coast Guard map showing iceberg limits and paths of famous unusually large bergs. He stated that we would cross a very small portion of the iceberg area but June is the time of year they are coming down.
One night Eric invited us to use the ship to shore radio and I was able to talk to my parents for a few minutes. They were surprised and relieved to talk to me from the Atlantic Ocean. Later that evening we were talking to Eric and he revealed that he had two wives. One wife lived in Mobile, Alabama and the other lived in Hamburg, Germany. They did not know about his unusual lifestyle and he admitted he had to be careful to keep their names straight but he was never lonely when he was in port.
First Mate Schulmeyer calculated we should reach Le Havre about June 23 but shocked us when he announced that our first port might be Gdansk, Poland since we were carrying a large cargo of grain that we might have to unload first. This was a major problem since none of us had visas for Poland and I had plans to meet friends in Paris who were going to travel with me on the VW bus.
On June 22 we were passed by a huge passenger ship, the SS United States, which was making 33 Knots to our 15. We were near the English channel and soon could see Bishop Rock. Our course was still Le Havre. We went by Normandy beach and could see the famous beaches of Utah and Omaha which were stormed almost exactly twenty years ago on D-day by Allied forces. Some German concrete bunkers were still visible.
We had to negotiate two locks to get to our berth. A huge ship in the harbor was a US Carrier the SS Essex. We were all enchanted by thepastel cliffs of Le Havre with quaint little cars and hundreds of bikes. The town and harbor had been completely destroyed in World War II but rebuilt in the original style. We learned that Americans were not welcome because of the extensive damage we caused to the docks and city. Our voyage was over but our summer trip to Europe had just begun.